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the land an aspe ct far different from th●at of the valley o
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    roduce ▓it into that language failed dismally●. “Cose sono allumette” croaked the dau●ghter of Italy, with such overdrawn sar▓casm that it was all too evident that she u▓nderstood the

    term, but did not pr●opose to admit any knowledge of th▓e despised francese tongue. “Fiammiferi▓, voglio

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    dire,” I replied, recal▓ling the correct word. “Ah! E▓cco!” cried the matron, handing ●me a box with her blandest smile. ● I quickly discovered, too, that the lan▓guage of the Divin

    e Comedy was n▓ot the one in which to make kno▓wn my simple wants.But being more fami●liar with the phraseology of the fa

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    mous Florent●ine than with the speech of the ma▓sses, I found myself, in those first ●days in the peninsula, prone to conv▓erse in poetics despite a very prosaic ▓temperament.As when, in th

    e outskirts● of Domo d’Ossola, I turned to a ches▓tnut vendor at a fork in the road, and ●pointing up one of the branche

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s, d●emanded: 44“Ah!—er—Perme si va nella ci▓ttà dol—Confound it, no, I mean is this the● road to Varese”

f the Rhne.It w●as hard to realize that the open fiel

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To which the● native, to whose lips was mounting a “n▓on capisc’” at sound of the Dantes●que phrase, answered in a tw

ds● and chilling night winds of Switzerland were▓ no

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inkli●ng: “Di s’guro, s’gnor’, semp’ dritt!”● Across northern Italy, almost in a straight▓ line, are scattered several famous cities, al▓l invad

t hundreds of miles away, but just behin●d the flanki
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ed by the broad highway that ●leads from the Simplon to Venice.Mos●t beautiful among them is Pallanza, a v●illage paradise on the shore● of Lago Maggiore, in the lakeside groves of wh●ich I

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should have tarried longer but for t▓he recollection of how wide the world is ▓to the impecunious wayfarer.I fished out, th●erefore, from the bin

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ng range. The Frenc▓h and German that

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of a second-han●d book dealer a ragged Baede▓ker in French, and, thus armed wi▓th a more trustworthy source of information than▓ dull-eyed peasants, boarded the steamer that co●nnected the

broken ends of the highway.● During the short journey a ba●nd of English tourists sauntered abo▓ut on